By Déborah Fabrico
São Paulo, a bustling metropolis known for its rich cultural diversity, is also home to a vibrant and historically significant Afro-Paulista community. The history of this community, however, is not straightforward. It is fragmented, with many records lost over time, making it like assembling pieces of a complex puzzle. This narrative dispute presents a significant challenge in telling the story of the Afro-Brazilian people.
For those seeking to explore the profound impact of Afro-Brazilian culture on the city's history and contemporary life, the Afro Sampa Experience offers an enlightening journey. This unique tour, meticulously curated to showcase the essence of Afro-Paulista heritage, guides visitors through some of São Paulo's most iconic and culturally rich landmarks.
Let’s delve into the itinerary that promises an enriching journey into the history and contributions of Afro-Brazilians in the city of São Paulo.
Mario de Andrade Library: A Cultural Cornerstone of São Paulo
Our journey begins at the Mario de Andrade Library, a historical and cultural cornerstone of São Paulo. Named after one of Brazil’s most influential modernist writers, this library is not just a repository of knowledge but a symbol of the city's dedication to cultural preservation and enlightenment.
Mario de Andrade, a Brazilian modernist, was a dedicated researcher of Brazil's popular culture. Although his Afro-Brazilian heritage was often overlooked, his contributions to the cultural landscape were immense. He passionately explored and documented the diverse artistic expressions across Brazil, bringing to light the rich culture of the nation. His work during the modernist era was pivotal in highlighting and celebrating Brazilian popular culture, ensuring that the voices and traditions of the people were recognized and valued.
Old Mappin Store
In the 1950s, a movement known as suingue, which preceded samba rock, emerged from the periphery of São Paulo. It found a crucial meeting point in front of the old Mappin store in Praça Ramos, where young people from the city's peripheral areas would gather to promote their dances through flyers. One of these young people was my father, Romildo Fabricio, the creator of Clube Perolas Negras, a group that started hosting dances at my grandmother's house in the Casa Verde neighborhood, known as the Little Africa of São Paulo. These young Black individuals wanted what most young people desire: fun. Without money, they began hosting dances in their living rooms. As these events grew, they expanded to halls in buildings like Martinelli, Matarazzo, Palmeiras, and even the elegant hall at Congonhas Airport.
These dances featured something intriguing called the Invisible Orchestra, where Osvaldo Pereira, considered Brazil's first DJ, played music behind the curtains, making it sound like an orchestra. After 90 minutes, the curtains would open, revealing Osvaldo. Hiring a DJ was an alternative for these young Black individuals to compensate for the lack of funds to hire a real orchestra. To deal with the racism they faced when renting elite spaces, these young Black people relied on the help of white friends who posed as the renters.
Municipal Theater
Next, we move to the Municipal Theater, a jewel of architectural and cultural significance to tell a story of an organization that highlights the courage of activists, the repressive context of the military dictatorship period, the events that spurred the foundation of the MNU, and the importance and legacy of the movement.
In 1978, amidst the repression of the authoritarian military dictatorship in Brazil, a group of courageous activists gathered on the steps of the São Paulo Municipal Theater. On July 7 of that year, the Unified Black Movement (MNU) was officially founded in a historic event marked by resistance and the fight for equality and justice. This event was a crucial milestone in promoting awareness and defending the rights of the Black community in Brazil.
The emergence of the MNU was driven by a series of emblematic incidents that occurred in São Paulo. Among them, the episode at the Tietê Rowing Club stands out, where four young Black individuals were prevented from using the swimming pool, an innocent black man was arrested because he was wrongly accused of stealing bananas from a street market, while another innocent black worker was killed by the police. Both cases were in São Paulo. These events served as catalysts for the mobilization and unity of the Black community, highlighting the urgent need for organization and resistance.
On the day of its foundation, over 2,000 people gathered in front of the São Paulo Municipal Theater. This large protest of engagement and determination highlighted the struggle against racial discrimination and institutional violence. During the event, an open letter from the movement was distributed, calling on the population to organize against injustices, reflecting the urgency and importance of the movement.
The foundation of the MNU represented a landmark in the history of the struggle for the rights of the Black community in Brazil. In a period of intense political repression, the courage and resistance of the activists were fundamental in promoting equality and justice. The MNU played a central role in raising public awareness and defending civil rights, establishing itself as an important force in the struggle against racism and discrimination.
Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Black Men (Black Brotherhood)
Until the 19th century, there were several Black brotherhoods, with the most renowned and enduring being the Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Black Men. This brotherhood created a space to care for and bury their deceased members, fulfilling essential roles in São Paulo society. They provided mutual aid, support during difficult times, and managed funerals, masses, burials, and prayers for the souls of the departed.
The Church of Our Lady of the Rosary of Black Men is historically and culturally significant as a site of religious syncretism and Black resistance. The celebrations and drumming in honor of Catholic saints often evoked African ritualistic elements, serving as a form of resistance to the brutality of slavery and connecting them to their homeland.
The church also helped enslaved people, sometimes helping in the process of obtaining freedom, and served as a crucial center for marginalized and excluded Black individuals to unite and plan their resistance strategies. Thus, the church at Largo do Paissandu stands as a testament to the religious syncretism that occurred in the Portuguese colony and as a heritage site for Afro-Brazilian religious traditions, indirectly preserving Black culture.
Originally, this church was built at the Old Largo do Rosário, now Antônio Prado Square, a well-located area known for the Historical Triangle. Due to modernization, the Black church was relocated to what was then a peripheral area called Largo do Paissandu.
It is important to emphasize that the Black Brotherhood also played a significant role in the abolition of slavery, acting as a force of resistance and support for the Black community.
Zumbi dos Palmares Statue: A Place of Memory
In front of the old Rosário Church stands the Zumbi dos Palmares Statue, a sculpture that honors Zumbi dos Palmares, the leader of Quilombo dos Palmares. This place was the most significant Quilombos or Black communities, which provided refuge for escaped enslaved individuals. This statue serves as an important place of memory, celebrating the resilience and resistance of the Black community.
Casa Preta Hub
Idealized by Adriana Barbosa, the founder of the Feira Preta Festival, Casa Preta Hub is a collaborative economic and cultural space that empowers black entrepreneurs, focusing on the diffusion and preservation of black artistic culture. This physical, self-sustaining hub supports entrepreneurs in various ways, offering a range of facilities:
Versatile Auditorium, a flexible space for various events
Studios equipped for photography, gastronomy, and sound production
Coworking spaces designed for collaboration and events
Casa Preta Hub stands as a testament to the strength and creativity of the Black community, providing the resources and support needed to have success.
Educafro
Educafro is an institution dedicated to empowering Afro-Brazilians by providing the support needed for social mobility through education. Its mission has always been to promote the inclusion of Black and poor people in universities, a legacy that has been maintained since its inception.
Frei David, the visionary behind Educafro, founded the institution 50 years ago and has since devoted his life to transforming lives.
In addition to educational support, Educafro helps Black people access recognized companies, especially in the technology sector. Educafro Tech, a specialized program within Educafro, focuses on increasing the representation of Black people in the technology industry. Currently, less than 10% of Afro-Brazilians work in this sector, and Educafro is committed to driving change.
Liberdade
The area now known as the Liberdade District in São Paulo once served as the institutional center for Black people during the period of slavery trade in Brazil.
These historical landmarks and the ongoing efforts to preserve them highlight the district's rich Black heritage and the continuous fight against the erasure of Black history.
7 de Setembro Square This square was the location of the old Pelourinho, adjacent to the House of Chamber and Chain.
Church of Santa Cruz dos Enforcados Located next to the current Liberdade Square, this church marks the site where enslaved Black people were executed by their masters and their henchmen. Known as the former Largo da Forca, it now features a statue of Madrinha Eunice, the first president of São Paulo's first samba school, Escola de Samba Lavapés, founded in 1937 and still active today.
Capela dos Aflitos This chapel on Rua dos Estudantes, now surrounded by buildings, was once the center of São Paulo's first cemetery in the 18th century, the Cemetery of the Afflicted.
Memorial dos Aflitos The restoration of this religious space has been a key objective of the organization since its creation in 2018. When a neighboring house was demolished to build a shopping mall, the construction threatened the structure of the chapel, which was built with rammed earth and is located in a heritage-protected area. The chapel is a significant symbol of resistance in a neighborhood that underwent gentrification in the 1920s and has since been known for its oriental culture.
After a complaint by Unamca, an archaeological site was discovered on the adjacent land, containing the remains of nine human bodies. These are the first known remains from the Cemetery of the Afflicted. As a result, construction was halted, and after much struggle and mobilization by civil society, the area was transferred to the Municipal Secretary of Culture to house the future Memorial dos Aflitos.
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